Puppy Care Guide — BLVD Vet Chicago | Logan Square, River North, Ravenswood

Congratulations on Your New Puppy!

You have taken an exciting step and adopted a new member of the family - we’re here to make sure that your furry friend stays as happy and healthy as possible. With that in mind, here is some information we hope will help you understand your puppy’s necessary health care.

Basic Tips

Your puppy’s temperament and behavior are developed within the first 16 weeks of life. The more positive socialization time your dog spends around people and other dogs, the less likely they are to be aggressive or excessively submissive. However, we do recommend staying clear of dog parks or other areas with unknown dogs until they are fully vaccinated.

Watch your puppy’s stool. If you notice any diarrhea or blood, please contact us. It could be a sign of parasites, or other common yet serious diseases that affect puppies who have not yet been sufficiently vaccinated. All puppies need to be immunized and dewormed to protect them from disease. Our doctors will work with you to develop an appropriate vaccine and deworming schedule for your puppy.

Female dogs typically begin their first heat cycle between 6 and 12 months of age which can result in vaginal swelling and discharge. It is important to spay your dog around this time to reduce the risk of reproductive cancers, cysts and mass developments of the reproductive organs, and potential serious and life-threatening infections as they age. Hormones produced during these heat cycles can also affect the behavior and attitude of all dogs in the household.

Male dogs also become reproductively mature around 6 months of age. We recommend neutering between 6 and 18 months of age depending on the breed and size of your dog. Intact male dogs are more susceptible to prostate cancer, prostate infections, and cancer in the male reproductive system. Hormones produced from intact males can also affect the behavior and attitude of all dogs in the household.

Puppy Socialization

Kiki Yablon, Certified Professional Dog Trainer, writes about what socialization is and why it’s so important:

Many of the serious behavior problems seen in adult dogs are rooted in incomplete or improper socialization. Yet adopters of young puppies often don’t even learn what socialization really is, or why it’s so important, until it’s too late.

Socialization is a process that needs to be well under way before your puppy is 12 weeks old. Between three and four months of age, the developmental stage known as the critical socialization period ends, and your puppy is more likely to be apprehensive about or even fearful of things he has never experienced before—whether or not they are a real threat. As they matures, untreated fear can manifest as anxiety and aggression.

Socialization doesn’t just mean play with other puppies and appropriate adult dogs. It means exposure to people, places, things, sounds, smells, surfaces, other animals, and experiences that they will need to be comfortable with. Your puppy should meet several new people and have several novel experiences every day. They should encounter the mail carrier and heavily perfumed women and smokers and beards and men in hats. They should make happy visits to the vet and the groomer and take other car rides to nowhere in particular. They should hear thunder and fireworks and trucks, watch a vacuum cleaner and a bicycle and a wheelchair in action, meet a dog-tolerant cat, and walk on grass, concrete, gravel, mulch, and manhole covers. If you live in the city, take a field trip to the country, and vice-versa.

But exposure alone isn’t enough: this exposure needs to be positive. Your puppy needs to learn that all these things are safe, or even better, that they predict good things for them. (This is extra important during “fear periods,” times when a bad experience is more likely to have a lasting effect. The first of these usually occurs between eight and 10 weeks; the second some time during adolescence.) Your job is to create a little canine optimist. Take things at your puppy’s pace and use space to avoid overwhelming them. Don’t force confrontation. Bring treats with you on socialization outings and use them to proactively create positive associations as soon as a new type of thing appears, without waiting for your puppy to get scared. An excellent resource on how to do this is the book Puppy Start Right, by veterinary behaviorist and veterinary technician Ken and Debbie Martin.

Finally, enrolling your puppy in a well-run group class before the age of 12 weeks provides not just a wealth of socialization opportunities but also a head start on formal training and professional guidance on common puppy issues. Contrary to older recommendations, puppies should not wait until they are fully vaccinated to attend a class—for more info, check out the current position of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, the professional organization for veterinarians who specialize in behavior.

The process of creating and maintaining positive associations with new experiences shouldn’t stop at 16 weeks. But if your dog is already four months or older and showing fear, the solution may not be the same kind of exposure recommended for puppies who are still in their critical socialization period. Contact a qualified behavior professional to help you get back on track.

Crate Training Your Dog

By Kiki Yablon, KPA CTP, CPDT-KA

A crate is a place to confine a dog. Whether that’s a good thing or a bad thing depends on how you’re using it. Confinement can be a very effective management tool in a larger training plan. Crating is often the easiest way to prevent reinforcement for unwanted behavior while you’re shaping up all the acceptable alternatives: A puppy in a crate can’t be peeing on your floor or chewing up your couch, and an untrained adult dog can’t be bowling over visitors or surfing the counters as you cook. A secured crate is one of the safest ways to transport a dog in a car. A dog who can relax in a crate has more options in life—they can participate more easily in dog sporting events or workshops, will be more welcome in unfamiliar homes and hotels, and may feel more comfortable staying at the vet, groomer, or kennel.

But over confinement can contribute to a host of problems, including hyperactivity and (not surprisingly) anxiety about the prospect of being confined. Dogs with pre-existing separation anxiety often panic more with the crate. What constitutes over confinement is up to the dog to some extent, but as a general rule, I don’t advocate crating without a significant and enriching break for more than four hours at a time.

And whatever you may have heard or read about dogs being “den animals”—a common contention that there is little evidence to support—most dogs will need to be taught to enjoy being crated for even that long.

You may have noticed that I don’t often offer explicit training “recipes” in this column. That’s because successful training is in large part about how you set and adjust your criteria—the training steps should be calibrated to the individual dog. But here are some guidelines and techniques that have worked well in my experience.

WHERE TO PUT THE CRATE
Most dogs like to be around their people, so right off the bat, a crate in a well-trafficked area will probably be more appealing to the dog than one that’s isolated. For new puppies, who are often confined overnight to help with housetraining, you might want two crates: one in the main living area and one in your bedroom.

MEALS IN THE CRATE
For most dogs, any place dinner is served can’t be all bad. Feed your dog in the crate, with the door open initially. Consider feeding out of a Kong or puzzle toy to extend the time spent in the crate and provide the opportunity to forage, a natural behavior considered enriching for dogs. To increase a new dog or puppy’s comfort with being in the crate alone, you can begin to step away a little as he is engaged in eating. Come back while they’re still chowing down.
THE PARTY BOX
Many crate-training tutorials advocate leaving the crate open all the time so that the dog can explore it freely. Problem is, unless the crate has been rigged (say, with extra comfy bedding studded with hidden treats) to be much more appealing than all the other locations where a dog can relax, many won’t seek it out in favor of the couch, a dog bed, or even just the floor.
So we can use a bit of reverse psychology. The crate is full of tantalizing goodies, but the dog can’t just walk in and get them. He actually has to “ask” to be let in.
- Generously sprinkle kibble or treats into the closed crate.
- Let the dog sniff and paw at the crate. When they come around to the door, open it for them.
- The instant they stick so much as a nose inside, say “yes” (or click, if you’re using a clicker) and then start a party, rapidly dropping more treats through openings at the sides and back of the crate for 15-30 seconds.
- As the dog is finishing up, place one more treat outside the crate. When the dog comes out to get it, wait quietly.
- With not much happening outside the crate, many dogs will reinvestigate, if not outright walk back into, the crate. The instant the dog sticks their nose past the doorway, start the party again. The food is now becoming contingent on moving into the crate.
- If the dog doesn’t investigate the crate at all, repeat the first steps until they begin to do so.
- Close the door between sessions.
BUILDING THE BEHAVIOR
When the dog is reliably heading back into the crate without bait, you can begin to wait for more than a nose in before starting the party. I usually use a clicker for precision in letting the dog know what the current criterion is: initially a paw or two, then all four paws, then all four paws for a few seconds, then turning around in the crate, then sitting or lying down.
At this point, you can switch to giving the dog a Kong or puzzle toy to work on independently. Unless your dog is a puzzle master, it should be easy for them to get food out of the toy at first—the main goal here is that they still gets lots of reinforcement, just not from you. The toy can even be tied to the inside of the crate so that it can only be enjoyed by staying put.
From here, you can add steps like closing the door briefly, closing the door for longer, moving away, leaving the room, and leaving the house. These are stages where it’s especially important to watch an individual dog’s responses and adjust your plan accordingly. A qualified trainer can help you set criteria and troubleshoot as needed.
You can also add a cue at this stage if you like—though opening the crate door has already become one. And in the meantime, don’t forget to teach your dog what you want them to do when they’re not confined. The more effort you devote to that, the less you’ll need to rely on the crate.

Canine Vaccines

Rabies: A viral disease of the nervous system that is BOTH fatal and transmissible to humans. A rabies diagnosis must be verified with laboratory tests and the animal must be euthanized. This vaccine is required by law and must be given by a licensed veterinary hospital.

“DHPP/DHLPP”

D - Distemper: A viral infection that can affect several body systems, including the respiratory and nervous system. It is characterized by fever, loss of white blood cells, and inflammation of the lungs and brain. Most cases can develop after an animal breathes in the virus from an infected animal.

H – Hepatitis/Adenovirus 2: A respiratory virus that is spread by bodily fluids including nasal discharge and urine. Initially, the virus affects the tonsils and the larynx causing a sore throat, cough and occasionally pneumonia. As it progresses, it can affect the kidneys, eyes & liver.

P - Parainfluenza: A respiratory virus that causes mild respiratory tract infections and is transmitted via contact with the nasal fluids of infected dogs.

P - Parvovirus: A potentially fatal viral disease that most often affects puppies or unvaccinated adult dogs. The virus is transmitted by direct contact with an infected dog as well as indirect transmission such as contaminated objects by feces. Some symptoms may include: sudden lethargy, loss of appetite, fever, vomiting, and diarrhea.

L - Leptospirosis: A bacterial infection of the urinary tract. This disease enters the bloodstream via infected urine and can cause kidney failure, liver failure and death. It can be transmissible to humans. Some signs/symptoms can include: fever, joint pain, nausea, low platelet count (excessive bleeding), depression and loss of appetite. Can be commonly seen in rat urine and standing puddles of water.

Bordetella: A bacterial component of kennel cough. This disease is highly contagious. The most common signs are harsh, dry coughing, which may be followed by retching & gagging. Dogs that are housed in close confinement with other dogs (boarding, grooming, daycare) should be vaccinated. Boosters should be administered biannually or annually, depending on risk and veterinarian’s advice. Can be given intranasally, orally, or by injection.

Canine Influenza (H3N8/H3N2): A respiratory infection including ocular and nasal discharge, coughing, sneezing, and depression that can lead to pneumonia. The vaccine is proven to reduce the incidence and severity of coughing, reduce the days and amount of viral shedding, decrease the overall clinical signs of disease, protect against the formation and severity of lung lesions. Dogs that are housed in close confinement with other dogs (boarding, grooming, daycare) should be vaccinated.

Lyme: Lyme disease is a bacterial infection that can affect many body systems, especially the joints. This disease is caused by a bacteria & transmitted through the bite of an infected tick to animals and humans. The most common signs (if any) can include: fever, loss of appetite, painful or swollen joints, lameness that progresses from mild to severe, swollen lymph nodes, and lethargy. If left untreated, it can lead to damage of the kidneys, nervous system, and heart.

Vaccine Reactions

It is common for pets to experience some or all of the following mild side effects after receiving a vaccine, usually starting within hours of the vaccination. If these side effects last for more than 48 hours, or cause your pet significant discomfort, it is important for you to contact your veterinarian:

Mild discomfort and local swelling at the injection site
Reluctant to walk/run
Decreased appetite ( lasting for one or two feedings)
Mild fever, sneezing, coughing. A "snotty nose" or other respiratory signs may occur 2-5 days after your pet receives an intranasal/oral vaccine
More serious, but less common side effects, such as allergic reactions, may occur within minutes to hours after vaccination. These reactions can be life-threatening and are medical emergencies. Seek veterinary care immediately if any of these signs develop:
Severe vomiting or diarrhea
Itchy skin that may seem bumpy ("hives")
Swelling of the muzzle and around the face, neck, or eyes
Severe coughing or difficulty breathing
Collapse

Sometimes a small firm swelling (“lump”) may develop at the injection site . This is expected to resolve within 1 month with the exception of the rabies vaccine that lump may be observed for up to 4 months. Contact us if the swelling:

Causes severe pain
Continues to grow/ulcerate/and changes characteristics
Persist beyond 5 months.

Always inform your veterinarian if your pet has had prior reactions to any vaccine or medication. We can personalize a vaccine premedication protocol for your pet. If in doubt, wait for 30-60 minutes following vaccination before taking your pet home.

Heartworm Disease

Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal disease in pets in the United States and many other parts of the world. It is caused by foot-long worms (heartworms) that live in the heart, lungs and associated blood vessels of affected pets, causing severe lung disease, heart failure and damage to other organs in the body. Heartworm disease affects dogs, cats and ferrets, but heartworms also live in other mammal species, including wolves, coyotes, foxes, sea lions and—in rare instances—humans. Because wild species such as foxes and coyotes live in proximity to many urban areas, they are considered important carriers of the disease.

The dog is a natural host for heartworms, which means that heartworms that live inside the dog mature into adults, mate and produce offspring. If untreated, their numbers can increase, and dogs have been known to harbor several hundred worms in their bodies. Heartworm disease causes lasting damage to the heart, lungs and arteries, and can affect the dog’s health and quality of life long after the parasites are gone. For this reason, prevention is by far the best option, and treatment—when needed—should be administered as early in the course of the disease as possible.

Heartworm disease is a serious, progressive disease. The earlier it is detected, the better the chances the pet will recover. There are few, if any, early signs of disease when a dog or cat is infected with heartworms, so detecting their presence with a heartworm test administered by a veterinarian is important. The test requires just a small blood sample from your pet, and it works by detecting the presence of heartworm proteins. Some veterinarians process heartworm tests right in their hospitals while others send the samples to a diagnostic laboratory. In either case, results are obtained quickly. If your pet tests positive, further tests may be ordered.

How is heartworm disease transmitted from one pet to another?

The mosquito plays an essential role in the heartworm life cycle. Adult female heartworms living in an infected dog, fox, coyote, or wolf produce microscopic baby worms called microfilaria that circulate in the bloodstream. When a mosquito bites and takes a blood meal from an infected animal, it picks up these baby worms, which develop and mature into “infective stage” larvae over a period of 10 to 14 days. Then, when the infected mosquito bites another dog, cat, or susceptible wild animal, the infective larvae are deposited onto the surface of the animal's skin and enter the new host through the mosquito’s bite wound. Once inside a new host, it takes approximately 6 months for the larvae to mature into adult heartworms. Once mature, heartworms can live for 5 to 7 years in dogs and up to 2 or 3 years in cats. Because of the longevity of these worms, each mosquito season can lead to an increasing number of worms in an infected pet. It is important to note that infected mosquitoes can come inside, both outdoor and indoor pets are at risk.

For that reason, the American Heartworm Society recommends that you get your pet tested every 12 months for heartworm and give your pet heartworm preventive year-round.

When should my dog be tested?

All dogs should be tested annually for heartworm infection, and this can usually be done during a routine visit for preventive care. Following are guidelines on testing and timing:

Puppies under 7 months of age can be started on heartworm prevention without a heartworm test (it takes at least 6 months for a dog to test positive after it has been infected), but should be tested at 6 months old to be sure they are negative.
Adult dogs over 7 months of age and previously not on a preventive need to be tested prior to starting heartworm prevention. They, too, need to be tested 6 months and 12 months later and annually after that.
If there has been a lapse in prevention (one or more late or missed doses), dogs should be tested immediately, then tested again six months later and annually after that.

Annual testing is necessary, even when dogs are on heartworm prevention year-round, to ensure that the prevention program is working. Heartworm medications are highly effective, but dogs can still become infected. If you miss just one dose of a monthly medication—or give it late—it can leave your dog unprotected. Even if you give the medication as recommended, your dog may spit out or vomit a heartworm pill—or rub off a topical medication. Heartworm preventives are highly effective, but not 100 percent effective. If you don’t get your dog tested, you won’t know your dog needs treatment.

We recommend and carry Simparica Trio Tablets OR Proheart 12 Injection. Simparica Trio is the first all in one protection in the U.S. against Heartworm, Fleas and Ticks, Roundworms and Hookworms in a single monthly chewable. Proheart Injectable 12 is a twelve month heartworm prevention given in our hospital for dogs 12 months or older. Ask us for more details about these products!

Intestinal Parasites

Intestinal parasites are different and unrelated to heartworm disease. They are more common, especially in puppies, and often more easily treatable. Dogs are known to sniff, lick, and gobble anything in their paths, including dirt, trash, and other animal feces. They can also obtain them from drinking lake or river water, as well as stagnant puddles. All the things they do with their mouths -- groom, kiss, wrestle, and other social habits -- can pass along unwanted guests to playmates and companions, canine and human alike.

Parasites worm their way into most dogs’ lives at one time or another. This is why we recommend annual fecal testing. Intestinal parasites are especially common in puppies, and most require deworming. Some signs of intestinal parasites include if your dog has diarrhea or is vomiting, coughing, chewing or licking under their tail, short of breath, or losing weight. If you notice any of these symptoms, your dog should be seen by a veterinarian. The symptoms and treatments depend on the type of worm and where it is living in your dog’s body.

Fleas

It would be a grave mistake to think of fleas as simply a nuisance. A heavy flea burden is lethal, especially to smaller or younger animals. Fleas are adaptive and their life cycle is always active: eggs are laid, larvae are developing, pupae are growing, etc.

Facts about fleas:

Fleas thrive particularly well in the well-regulated temperatures in the home.

Fleas are mobile and opportunistic. They are able to jump great distances to explore new hosts. Exposure can happen merely passing an infected animal within range on the street, or in your apartment complex in the moments while you are coming in the door and your dog is there to greet you.

Fleas love to develop in the cracks between the boards of hard wood floors. They are not merely prone to harboring in carpets or soft material surfaces.

You cannot expect to see fleas as many animals are adept at licking them away. Sometimes all that is seen is the characteristic skin irritation or disease.
The presence of tapeworm in your dog’s stool is also an indication that fleas are evident. When flea eggs are ingested, they complete their life cycle in a dog’s GI tract, presenting in the stool as tapeworms.

Ticks

Ticks are parasites who feed on blood and transmit disease. While they are more prevalent in wooded areas of the country, they find their way to urban areas as hitchhikers aboard wildlife and domestic animals alike.

Facts about ticks:

Ticks carry diseases that both humans and animals are affected by. Anaplasmosis, Ehrlichia, and Lyme disease are the most common, and cause a variety of symptoms including fever, lethargy, and lameness or soreness of the limbs. We test for these diseases using a small blood sample sent out to a lab, which is included when testing for the Heartworm disease.
Tick borne diseases are typically transmitted after a tick has been attached for more than 48 hours.
If you don’t feel comfortable safely removing the embedded tick or confident in removing the entire “head,” please contact us for assistance.

We recommend and carry Simparica Trio Tablets OR Proheart 12 Injection. Simparica Trio is the first all in one protection in the U.S. against Heartworm, Fleas and Ticks, Roundworms and Hookworms in a single monthly chewable. Proheart Injectable 12 is a twelve month heartworm prevention given in our hospital for dogs 12 months or older. Ask us for more details about these products!

Dental Health

Dental health is as important for your dog as it is for you. Dogs have 42 teeth and no way to care for them on their own. Brushing their teeth at home is helpful, but just like you, they will still sometimes require a thorough cleaning or even oral surgery. Normal amounts of bacteria in the mouth lead to soft plaque on the teeth, which eventually hardens to tartar. You may observe tartar as the yellow-brown buildup near your dog’s gumline. What you cannot see is that bacteria also infiltrates under the gumline, where it causes inflammation of the gums and loss of bone at the root of the tooth. This is what we call periodontal disease, which can cause many issues such as bad breath, tooth decay/fracture, and even heart, kidney, and liver disease.

The procedure we use to treat periodontal disease is called a Comprehensive Oral Treatment, or COT. This is a very common procedure at Boulevard Veterinary - in fact we performed about 250 of these procedures in the past year alone! Most dogs will require multiple COTs over the course of their lives to keep their mouth healthy. We recommend brushing your dog’s teeth at home to help prolong the period of time between professional dental cleanings. You can do this by obtaining either a pet toothbrush or a soft-bristled toddler toothbrush, and pet-specific toothpaste as human toothpaste can contain ingredients that are harmful if swallowed. Using circular motions, brush the outsides of your dog’s teeth, focusing on the large canines and molars. Brush for 1-2 minutes or as long as your dog will let you. Brushing every day is ideal, but realistically if you are able to brush 1-2 times a week it can still be very helpful. Starting to brush at a young age will accustom your dog to the process. You may need to use treats and positive reinforcement to encourage your dog to accept their teeth being brushed. You can work your way up from touching your dog’s mouth, then lifting their lip, then letting them lick the toothpaste, then brushing their teeth.

We also recommend steering clear of treats and toys that can be harmful to the mouth. A general rule of thumb is that anything your dog is chewing on should have a little give. Hard items like antlers, bones, hooves, and some synthetic toys can easily fracture teeth and cut into gums. Durable rubber and nylon toys are much safer to chew on.

Cleaning Your Dog’s Ears

Your dog’s ears should be mostly self-cleaning. If you notice a significant amount of debris (usually waxy, brown material) or observe your pet excessively scratching their ears, your pet should see a doctor. Routine maintenance ear cleaning may be recommended at that time - here’s how to do it:

Gently hold the ear flap and squeeze in a small amount of ear cleaner (enough to travel down the ear canal, but not so much that it’s overflowing). Your pet may shake their head and flap their ears - this is normal.
Gently massage the base of the ear for about 10 seconds. This step should not be painful to your pet. If your pet cries out or seems uncomfortable, you should contact your veterinarian.
Using cotton balls, wipe outwards from the ear canal to gently remove any wax and debris. You may wet the cotton balls with more ear cleaner if needed.
Be aware that a pet’s ear canal is roughly L-shaped, so puncturing the eardrum is unlikely. Just go slow and do not go further than you can see.

How To Trim Your Dog’s Nails

Nail clipping is an important part of keeping your dog groomed. If a dog’s nails grow too long, they can cause discomfort and pain, or even grow into the pads and cause infection. A groomer or veterinary professional can trim your dog’s nails for you, but you may also want to be able to do it yourself at home. Start by familiarizing and positively reinforcing your dog to the process. Ideally this would begin when your dog is a puppy, but you can certainly still use these techniques with an older dog. Touch / lightly squeeze your dog’s feet and toes regularly, and when he allows you to do so reward him with praise and/or treats. When your dog has become used to this, introduce the nail trimmers. Start by simply showing them to your dog, and rewarding him with praise/treats. Make their appearance something your dog looks forward to. Eventually you can move on to gently touching your dog’s feet with the nail trimmers, again rewarding him for allowing this behavior. Keep in mind that each one of these steps may take several days or more. Do not rush the process - let your dog fully accept each stage as a positive behavior before moving on to the next step. Once your dog is completely comfortable with you touching his feet and holding the trimmers to them, you can move on to actually trimming the nails.

If your dog has clear nails, it will be easy to know where to trim. You will be able to see the pink “quick” where the blood supply to the nail ends. This is what you will want to avoid clipping. Trim small amounts of the nail at a time, slowly working further up the nail until you have neared the quick. If your dog has black nails, you will not be able to see the quick. You will also want to trim small amounts at a time, and stop when you can see a small dot appearing where you are trimming the nail. This lets you know you have neared the quick.

If you do accidentally cut the quick, the nail will bleed and the dog will experience some minor pain, but you are unlikely to have done serious damage. Apply pressure to the end of the nail with a clean piece of tissue or gauze until the bleeding stops. A styptic pencil, cornstarch, or flour can help stop the bleeding. If bleeding persists, contact a veterinarian.

Anal Glands

You know all that doggy butt-sniffing that we humans seem to find either appalling or hilarious? Ever ask yourself what that’s all about? You may not think of that dog in your bed as a predator, but at heart, they are. And like all predators, your dog has anal sacs (anal glands) located on both sides and slightly below their anus. They produce fluid with a distinctive odor that identifies them and tells other dogs their sex, approximate age, health status, and other things.

Healthy anal glands express, or empty, this fluid when the dog has a bowel movement. Unfortunately, some anal glands don’t work as they should because of inherited malformations, or because of a history of poor-quality foods that produce poor-quality bowel movements. If the anal glands don’t empty properly, they can become impacted, making bowel movements difficult or painful, and potentially leading to infections or abscesses.

It’s not uncommon for a rescued dog to have a history of anal gland problems. Your dog may damage the delicate tissue around their anus in their attempts to relieve their own discomfort, so if you see them biting at their hind end, or scooting it along the ground, take them to the vet.

Impacted anal glands can often be relieved by manually expressing, or squeezing out, the fluid they contain. This is a very smelly process, but if you’re game you can have your vet or groomer teach you how to do it. Most people whose dogs need their anal glands expressed periodically prefer to pay to have it done.

If your dog’s anal glands get impacted frequently, ask your vet whether a diet change may help. If that doesn’t work, and if your dog has repeated infections or abscesses from impaction, the anal glands may need to be removed.

Tags and Licenses

Rabies Tag & Certificate: A rabies vaccine is required by state law. A tag must be issued as proof of vaccine, which is required at most boarding facilities, dog parks, groomers, and for domestic and international travel. A rabies tag is provided by Boulevard Vet when your pet receives a rabies vaccine, as well as a certificate proving the lot number and expiration of the vaccine, as well as the veterinarian who administered it.

Dog Friendly Area (DFA) Tag & Certificate: This can be purchased at Boulevard Veterinary as serves as legal access to all of Chicago’s Dog Parks and approved areas. It serves to prove vaccination compliance and legal allowance by a veterinarian that your dog can participate in these dog friendly areas. For more information visit the Chicago Park District.

City of Chicago Dog License:

Why Register Your Dog?

It’s the law! Municipal Code 7-12-140 requires all dogs four months and older be registered with the City of Chicago.
It helps us locate your lost dog. The person who finds your dog simply calls our office at 312-744-DOGS with your registration number (on your dog’s tag).
Dogs must be registered in order to stay at dog boarding and daycare service facilities.
Dog registration is a prerequisite for acquiring permission to enter Chicago Park District dog-friendly areas.

Microchipping Your Dog

Despite your best efforts, your dog has slipped out an open door and disappeared. If they’re wearing a collar and identification tag, chances are good that if someone finds them, you’ll get them back.

But what if the collar comes off?

To protect their pets in this scenario, many owners turn to technology in the form of microchips implanted in their pets. But don't rely on a microchip alone to protect your pet. In the event of accidental separation, identification tags are your pet's first ticket home. Microchips provide an extra level of protection in case your pet loses their collar and tags. Providing your cat or dog with both tags and a microchip can help ensure a happy reunion if the unthinkable happens and your companion gets lost.

What Are Microchips?

Microchips are tiny transponders, about the size of a grain of rice, that use radio frequency waves to transmit information about your pet. They're implanted just under the skin, usually right between the shoulder blades with a quick poke of a large bore needle. This can be done during a brief office visit while your pet is awake, they tolerate the needle better than you think!

How They Work

Each microchip contains a registration number and the phone number of the registry for the particular brand of chip. A handheld scanner reads the radio frequency of the chip and displays this information. The animal shelter or vet clinic that finds your pet can contact the registry to get your name and phone number.

Can a microchip get lost inside my pet?

Your pet's subcutaneous tissue usually bonds to the chip within 24 hours, preventing it from moving, although there's a small chance that the chip could migrate. But it can't actually get lost inside your pet.

How long do microchips last?

Microchips are designed to work for 25 years.

How do I register my pet?

Complete the paperwork that comes with the chip and send it to the registry, or do it online if that option is available. Some companies charge a one-time registration fee while others charge an annual fee. You’ll also receive a tag for your pet’s collar with the chip number and registry phone number.

Are there different types of chips?

Yes, and that used to be a problem. Competing microchip companies use different frequencies to send signals to scanners, and until recently there was no universal scanner that could read all the different frequencies. That was a problem if a pet had a microchip that a scanner couldn't detect.
Many microchip companies now produce universal scanners and provide them to animal shelters and animal control agencies at no or very low cost. If your local shelters don’t have scanners, they can contact some of the major manufacturers to ask about getting one.

Are there different registries?

Yes, and that, too, used to be problematic. Different chip companies maintained separate databases. Now, some chip companies will register pets with any brand of chip Also, the American Microchip Advisory Council is working to develop a network of the registry databases to streamline the return of pets to their families.

Can a microchip replace my pet's collar and tags?

Despite advances in universal scanners and registry procedures, microchips aren't foolproof, and you shouldn't rely on them exclusively to protect your pet. Universal scanners can detect a competing company's chip, but they may not be able to read the data. And if shelter or vet clinic personnel don’t use the scanner properly, they may fail to detect a chip.

What if I move?

You need to contact the company that registers the chip to update your information; otherwise, the chip will be useless. You may be charged a small fee to process the update.

What do I do if I adopt a pet who's already been microchipped?

If you know what brand of chip your pet has, contact the corresponding registry to update the information. If you don’t know what type of chip your pet has, find a veterinarian or animal shelter that can read it.

Pet Insurance 101

Just like us, pets may require unexpected medical treatment. Many people only consider emergencies such as getting hit by a car, but your pet is more likely to have a bout of GI upset, eat a toy, or develop issues like arthritis or allergies; all of which can be costly to diagnose and treat. When the unexpected happens, pet health insurance helps prevent finances from playing a role in determining what care you can provide for your pet.

Pet health insurance typically involves a monthly premium, so you may be asking yourself, “Is this an investment I want to make?” When determining if pet health insurance is the right fit for you and your pet, it’s important to note the many ways it can improve a bad situation:

Pet health insurance gives you peace of mind should your pet end up in an unexpected emergency, you will never have to deny them the care that they need. Whether it be an ingested thread or a scuffle at the dog park, pet health insurance lets you rest easy knowing your pet is covered.
Pet health insurance allows pet owners to prioritize the best possible medical care for their pets. Alleviating some of the financial burden of a pricey procedure or treatment ensures pets receive the best possible care - no questions asked.
Pet health insurance protects pet owners who know they cannot afford a medical emergency out of pocket.

Do Your Homework

Pet health insurance is not one-size-fits-all. There are cat-specific and dog-specific plans. There are plans that only cover sick visits and emergencies, and others that offer wellness coverage. There are plans that cover the full cost and other plans that have deductibles or cover a percentage of the total invoice.
- No pet health insurance will pay for pre-existing conditions so the sooner in life you insure your pet, the more it will cover.
- Some pet health insurances have special exclusions that are breed specific so be sure to ask them.
- Make sure your preferred clinic accepts your provider (BLVD Vet accepts all major plans, but recommends ASPCA Pet Health Insurance which has no network restrictions.)
- Research to find one that makes sense for you and your pet’s needs. Contact representatives to ask additional questions.
- Get a quote. Most insurance providers will provide a calculator that will give you a quote for monthly premiums for your dog or cat based on their age, location, and sometimes breed.

How It Works

Pet health insurance providers typically require an exam to start so they have a baseline for the current health of your pet. If your pet is due for a wellness or a puppy/kitten exam, this is the perfect time to apply for pet health insurance.
One you have pet health insurance, if your pet has a medical visit, you would submit your claim (online, by mail or by fax.) Typically they just require an invoice and a medical note to support the claim.
Pay the invoice at the time of service and have reimbursements directly deposited into your bank account. Some insurance companies are able to coordinate paying the veterinarian directly if paying out of pocket first is not possible.

“If pet owners are thinking about getting insurance, I usually recommend them doing it as soon as possible. Any time your pet has an issue prior to getting insurance it would be classified as a pre-existing condition and not covered. This is super frustrating with skin issues and other chronic diseases.”

— Dr. Andrew Bean

We all want the best for our pets and providing them with the care they need can be made much easier by utilizing pet health insurance. Still have questions on how it works? Don’t hesitate to give us a call. We are always here for you and your pets.

aspca pet health insurnace

Pet Poison Control

Any ingestion of human medication, or veterinary medication beyond a prescribed dose should also be treated as a medical emergency. If you suspect your pet has ingested anything dangerous, please contact the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. Cats additionally can be very sensitive to chemicals not specifically intended and tested for cats so be very cautious about using over the counter shampoos, wipes and parasite preventatives. Cats are also very sensitive to lilies in the “true lily” and “daylily” families. The entire lily plant is toxic including the stem, leaves, flowers, pollen, and even the water in a vase. If treatment is delayed by 18 hours or more after ingestion, the cat will generally have irreversible kidney failure so keep lilies out of your home!

Lastly, the following foods may be dangerous for your pet to ingest:

Alcoholic beverages
Apple seeds
Apricot pits
Avocados
Cherry pits
Candy (particularly chocolate and any candy containing the toxic sweetener Xylitol)
Coffee (grounds, beans, and chocolate-covered espresso beans)
Garlic
Grapes
Gum (can cause blockages and sugar free gums may contain the toxic sweetener Xylitol)
Hops
Lilies
Macadamia nuts
Moldy foods
Mushroom plants
Mustard seeds
Onions and onion powder
Peach pits
Potato leaves and stems (green parts)
Raisins
Rhubarb leaves
Salt
Tea (because it contains caffeine)
Tomato leaves and stems (green parts)
Walnuts
Xylitol (artificial sweetener that is toxic to pets)
Yeast dough