Kitten Care Guide — BLVD Vet Chicago | Logan Square, River North, Ravenswood

Congratulations on Your New Kitten!

You have taken an exciting step and adopted a new member of the family. We’re here to make sure that your furry friend stays as happy and healthy as possible. With that in mind, here is some information we hope will help you understand your kitten’s necessary health care.

Basic Tips

It is important that your kitten has the proper socialization they need when they are young. The main socialization window for kittens is from 2 to 7 weeks of age, but it can extend up to 14 weeks. During this time, your cat is most receptive to new experiences and you should take special care to expose them to positive situations and handling. Kittens also need protection from infectious diseases and parasites before they begin socializing with other animals. All kittens need to be immunized and dewormed to protect them from disease. Our doctors will work with you to develop an appropriate vaccine schedule for your kitten.

Watch your kitten’s stool. It may not be very pleasant, but it could save their life. If you notice any diarrhea or blood, please contact our office. It could be a sign of parasites, or other common yet serious diseases that affect kittens who have not yet been sufficiently vaccinated.

Female cats typically begin their first heat cycle after 6 months of age which can be noted by an increase of affectionate behavior, yowling, and posturing. It is important to spay your cat around this time before their first cycle to reduce the risk of reproductive cancers, cyst and mass developments of the reproductive organs, and potential serious and life-threatening infections as they age. Spaying your cat helps a great deal in preventing any inappropriate urination around the home. Hormones produced by unspayed females can also affect the behavior and attitude of all other cats in the household.

Male cats also become reproductively mature around 6 months of age. Around this time you may note an increase of stalking behavior, yowling, marking and attempts to escape the home. We recommend neutering around this time to reduce the risk of prostate cancer, prostate infections, and cancer in the male reproductive system. Neutering your cat helps a great deal in preventing any inappropriate urination around the home. Hormones produced by unneutered males can also affect the behavior and attitude of all cats in the household and their markings have a very distinct odor.

Cats additionally can be very sensitive to chemicals not specifically intended and tested for cats so be very cautious about using over the counter shampoos, wipes and parasite preventatives. Cats are also very sensitive to lilies in the “true lily” and “daylily” families. The entire lily plant is toxic including the stem, leaves, flowers, pollen, and even the water in a vase. If treatment is delayed by 18 hours or more after ingestion, the cat will generally have irreversible kidney failure so keep lilies out of your home!

Feline Vaccines

Rabies: A viral disease of the nervous system that is both fatal and transmissible to humans. Early stages of rabies can easily be confused with other diseases. A rabies diagnosis must be verified with laboratory tests and the animal must be euthanized. This vaccine is required by law and must be given by a licensed veterinarian.

FVRCP combo vaccine, comprised of:

FVR - Feline Viral Rhinotracheitis (feline herpesvirus type 1): A viral upper respiratory infection with signs such as sneezing, nasal discharge, inflammation of the nose, and/or conjunctivitis.
C - Calicivirus: A common disease that affects cats. It is characterized by upper respiratory symptoms, pneumonia, oral ulcerations (sores in mouth), and occasionally arthritis.
P - Panleukopenia (feline distemper): A viral infection that affects multiple body systems, most infections cause no signs (low white blood cell count), but if signs are present the infection is serious and usually fatal. Cats are infected through the mouth and nose by exposure to infected animals. This virus can persist in the environment for over 1 year unless strong disinfectants are used.
FeLV - Feline Leukemia Virus: A viral form of blood cancer that suppresses the immune system and is at a higher risk of acquiring infections from bacteria and other infectious agents in the environment.

Vaccine Reactions

It is common for pets to experience some or all of the following mild side effects after receiving a vaccine, usually starting within hours of the vaccination. If these side effects last for more than 48 hours, or cause your pet significant discomfort, it is important for you to contact your veterinarian:

Mild discomfort and local swelling at the injection site
Reluctant to walk/run
Decreased appetite ( lasting for one or two feedings)
Mild fever, sneezing, coughing. A "snotty nose" or other respiratory signs may occur 2-5 days after your pet receives an intranasal/oral vaccine

More serious, but less common side effects, such as allergic reactions, may occur within minutes to hours after vaccination. These reactions can be life-threatening and are medical emergencies. Seek veterinary care immediately if any of these signs develop:

Severe vomiting or diarrhea
Itchy skin that may seem bumpy ("hives")
Swelling of the muzzle and around the face, neck, or eyes
Severe coughing or difficulty breathing
Collapse

Sometimes a small firm swelling (“lump”) may develop at the injection site . This is expected to resolve within 1 month with the exception of the rabies vaccine that lump may be observed for up to 4 months. Contact us if the swelling:

Causes severe pain
Continues to grow/ulcerate/and changes characteristics
Persist beyond 5 months.

Always inform your veterinarian if your pet has had prior reactions to any vaccine or medication. We can personalize a vaccine premedication protocol for your pet. If in doubt, wait for 30-60 minutes following vaccination before taking your pet home.

FeLV / FIV Testing

FIV - Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (feline AIDS): A viral infection of the immune system, leading to signs such as anemia and low white blood cell counts, infections of the gums and mouth, cancer or neurologic disease. This disease is spread from cat to cat, primarily by biting.
FIP - Feline Infectious Peritonitis: A viral infection that can affect many body systems, including the liver, kidneys, and brain. Inflammation of the abdomen is common in some forms of the disease. Most cats are exposed to the virus early in life.

FeLV (Feline Leukemia Virus) and FIV (Feline Immunodeficiency Virus) are contagious, untreatable diseases in cats. Outdoor cats are at increased risk for both FeLV and FIV. If a domestic house cat was to accidentally get outside, feral outdoor cats are territorial and tend to be aggressive toward new felines. These feline diseases are transmitted through the passing of saliva and other bodily fluids, most commonly through a bite.

Cats are most vulnerable to these viruses as kittens. The viruses may also be passed from a mother cat to her kittens. Kittens may be tested for FeLV & FIV at any age. However, infection in newborn kittens may not be detected until weeks to months after birth. Therefore, several FeLV / FIV tests during the first six months of life may be necessary to feel completely sure about a negative test result. This test is highly recommended for all kittens around 6 months of age.

All kittens or adult cats that test negative on their first screening test, but have a known or suspected exposure to FeLV, should be retested after 90 days post-exposure. Adult cats can also be FIV / FeLV tested, and then vaccinated if they are negative. FeLV vaccination of infected cats does not affect the carrier state, the ability to infect other cats, or the development of disease in the infected cats. Kittens should be vaccinated with a recombinant vaccine, as leukemia is almost entirely preventable with two kitten vaccines and a booster vaccine 1 year later. Booster vaccinations with recombinant vaccine are generally used in adult cats only if they have continuing risk of exposure (such as being an outdoor cat).

Confinement Training for Cats

by Barbara Sherman, PhD, DVM

Select a carrying crate that allows the cat to turn around and stand up, and has a top that is easily removed. Provision the crate with comfortable, washable bedding preferred by the cat. Some cats select as a resting site a cushion or towel; other cats prefer an object of clothing (such as a t-shirt) worn by a specific person. Place the crate on an elevated resting site favored by the cat when recumbent. This location should be out of reach of dogs and small children in the home. Be certain that the crate is secure and will not move or fall. Make the crate available to your cat with the crate door tied open. If the cat does not readily use the crate at first, remove the top. Later, when the cat is consistently using the lower portion of the crate, add the top section, leaving everything else the same. If the cat avoids use of the crate (which may be the case if the cat had a prior negative experience in that crate), consider another type of carrier, such as a soft-sided model.

The synthetic feline facial pheromone, Feliway may be helpful. It is available as a wipe for carriers or a spray. Wipe or spray one spritz of Feliway in the carrier, and allow it to dry before allowing your cat to have access to the carrier.

When the cat reliably rests in the crate, practice approaching the cat in the crate and interacting in a low-key way that the cat likes. For example, offer a tasty treat or scratch the cat’s head gently, then leave the cat alone. Eventually, this can be extended to approach, reward (for allowing your approach), then shut the crate door briefly, open, reward, then walk away. When the cat accepts these procedures, continue to the next step of closing the door and making a small adjustment in the crate, so the cat feels the crate move, then open the door and give a treat or other reward and leave. With time, pick up the cat and put them in the carrier, close the door, pick up the crate, put it down, open the door and give the reward. In all cases, the interaction is short and does not involve an actual confinement and transport event. Eventually, add walking around your home with the cat in its crate, returning the crate to its original location and rewarding the cat for tolerating the protocol of being confined and carried. Between sessions, the crate should remain in the safe location. Do not store the crate out of sight only to be retrieved prior to veterinary visits. For actual veterinary visits, plan ahead so that you do not frighten the cat before it goes into its carrier so the process is calm and not rushed.

Parasites

Parasites are small to microscopic organisms that can live both on your pet and in their digestive system. They are more common in kittens, as they can pass between littermates and from their mothers as they nurse. All the things they do with their mouths - groom, lick, wrestle, and other social habits - can pass along unwanted guests to playmates and companions, feline and human alike.

Parasites worm their way into most cats’ lives at one time or another. This is why we recommend annual fecal testing. Some signs of intestinal parasites include vomiting, diarrhea, coughing, chewing or licking under the tail, or losing weight. If you notice any of these symptoms, your cat should be seen by a veterinarian. The symptoms and treatments depend on the type of worm and where it is living in your cat’s body.

Fleas

It would be a grave mistake to think of fleas as simply a nuisance. A heavy flea burden is lethal, especially to smaller or younger animals. Fleas are adaptive and their life cycle is always active: eggs are laid, larvae are developing, pupae are growing, etc.

Fleas thrive particularly well in the regulated temperatures of the home.
Fleas are mobile and opportunistic. They are able to jump great distances to explore new hosts. Exposure can happen merely passing an infected animal within range on the street, or in your apartment complex in the moments when you are coming in the door and your cat is there to greet you.
Fleas love to develop in the cracks between the boards of hardwood floors. They are not merely prone to harboring in carpets or soft materials.
You cannot expect to see fleas as many animals are adept at licking them away. Sometimes all that is seen is the characteristic skin irritation or disease.
The presence of tapeworm in your cat’s stool is also an indication that fleas may be present. When flea eggs are ingested, they complete their life cycle in a cat’s GI tract, presenting in the stool as tapeworms.

Heartworm Disease

Heartworm disease is a serious and potentially fatal disease in pets in the United States and many other parts of the world. It is caused by foot-long worms (heartworms) that live in the heart, lungs, and associated blood vessels of affected pets, causing severe lung disease, heart failure, and damage to other organs in the body. Heartworm disease can affect dogs, cats, and ferrets, but heartworms also live in other mammal species, including (in rare instances) humans. Because wild species such as foxes and coyotes live in proximity to many urban areas, they are considered important carriers of the disease.

Heartworm disease in cats is very different from heartworm disease in dogs. The cat is an atypical host for heartworms, and most worms in cats do not survive to the adult stage. Cats with adult heartworms typically have just one to three worms, and many cats affected by heartworms have no adult worms. While this means heartworm disease often goes undiagnosed in cats, it’s important to understand that even immature worms cause damage in the form of a condition known as heartworm associated respiratory disease. Moreover, the medication used to treat heartworm infections in dogs cannot be used in cats, so prevention is the only means of protecting cats from the effects of heartworm disease.

How is heartworm disease transmitted from one pet to another?

The mosquito plays an essential role in the heartworm life cycle. Adult female heartworms living in an infected dog, fox, coyote, or wolf produce microscopic baby worms called microfilaria that circulate in the bloodstream. When a mosquito bites and takes a blood meal from an infected animal, it picks up these baby worms, which develop and mature into “infective stage” larvae over a period of 10 to 14 days. Then, when the infected mosquito bites another dog, cat, or susceptible wild animal, the infective larvae are deposited onto the surface of the animal's skin and enter the new host through the mosquito’s bite wound. Once inside a new host, it takes approximately 6 months for the larvae to mature into adult heartworms. Once mature, heartworms can live for 5 to 7 years in dogs and up to 2 or 3 years in cats. Because of the longevity of these worms, each mosquito season can lead to an increasing number of worms in an infected pet.

What are the signs of heartworm disease in cats?

Signs of heartworm disease in cats can be very subtle or very dramatic. Symptoms may include coughing, asthma-like attacks, periodic vomiting, lack of appetite, or weight loss. Occasionally an affected cat may have difficulty walking, experience fainting or seizures, or suffer from fluid accumulation in the abdomen. Unfortunately, the first sign in some cases is sudden collapse of the cat, or sudden death.

What do I need to know about heartworm testing?

Heartworm disease is a serious, progressive disease. The earlier it is detected, the better the chances the pet will recover. There are few, if any, early signs of disease when a dog or cat is infected with heartworms, so detecting their presence with a heartworm test administered by a veterinarian is recommended. The test requires just a small blood sample from your pet, and it works by detecting the presence of heartworm proteins. Some veterinarians process heartworm tests right in their hospitals while others send the samples to a diagnostic laboratory. In either case, results are obtained quickly. If your pet tests positive, further tests may be ordered.

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When should my cat be tested?

Heartworm infection in cats is harder to detect than in dogs, because cats are much less likely than dogs to have adult heartworms. The preferred method for screening cats includes the use of both an antigen and an antibody test (the “antibody” test detects exposure to heartworm larvae). Your veterinarian may also use x-rays or ultrasound to look for heartworm infection. Cats should be tested before being put on prevention and re-tested as the veterinarian deems appropriate to document continued exposure and risk. Because there is no approved treatment for heartworm infection in cats, prevention is critical.

Dental Health

Dental health is as important for your cat as it is for you. Cats have 30 teeth and no way to care for them on their own. Brushing their teeth at home is helpful, but just like you, they will still sometimes require a thorough cleaning or even oral surgery. Normal amounts of bacteria in their mouth lead to soft plaque on the teeth, which eventually hardens to tartar. You may observe tartar as the yellow-brown buildup near your cat’s gumline. What you cannot see is that bacteria also infiltrates under the gumline, where it causes inflammation of the gums and loss of bone at the root of the tooth. This is what we call periodontal disease, which can cause many issues such as bad breath, tooth decay and fracture, and even heart, kidney, and liver disease.

The procedure we use to treat periodontal disease is called a Comprehensive Oral Treatment, or COT for short. This is a very common procedure at Boulevard Veterinary - in fact we perform about 250 of these procedures each year! Most cats will require multiple COTs over the course of their lives to keep their mouth healthy. We recommend brushing your cat’s teeth at home to help prolong the period of time between professional dental cleanings. You can do this by obtaining either a pet toothbrush or a soft-bristled toddler toothbrush, and pet-specific toothpaste (as human toothpaste can contain ingredients that are harmful to pets if swallowed). Using circular motions, brush the outsides of your cat’s teeth, focusing on the large canines and molars. Brush for 1-2 minutes or as long as your cat will let you. Brushing every day is ideal, but realistically if you are able to brush 1-2 times a week it will still be very helpful to your cat’s oral health. Starting to brush at a young age will accustom your cat to the process. You may need to use treats and positive reinforcement to encourage your cat to accept their teeth being brushed. You can work your way up from touching your cat’s mouth, then lifting their lip, then letting them lick the toothpaste, then brushing their teeth.

Cleaning Your Cat’s Ears

Most cats are able to maintain good grooming habits and shouldn’t need regular ear cleanings. However, if you are noticing a lot of debris in their pinna, discuss it with your vet and they may recommend a regimen of ear cleaning. Never use an ear cleaner that isn’t specifically recommended by a veterinarian to avoid causing additional issues.

Apply a generous amount of ear cleaning solution into the ear canal. Massage the base of the ear to disperse the cleaning solution deep into the ear canal for about 10 minutes. Your pet may shake their head and flap their ears - this is normal.
Allow your pet to shake its head to remove the solution. This is best done outside to prevent soiling carpet, walls, etc. If there is a lot of debris in the ear, you may have to repeat the application until the cleaning solution is clear of debris.
You can use cotton balls to absorb the excess solution from the ear canal and to gently wipe away any loose debris from the surface of the ear. Do not use cotton swabs or Q-tips® for cleaning as they can push wax further into the ear canal or damage the eardrum. The frequency of cleaning will vary according to your veterinarian’s recommendations
Be aware that a pet’s ear canal is roughly L-shaped, so puncturing the eardrum is unlikely. Just go slow and do not go further than you can see.

Hairballs

When cats groom themselves and their feline friends, hair gets caught on the barbs of the tongue. That hair is then swallowed. In a healthy cat, that hair will go through the stomach and intestines and come out in the feces. So if a cat is vomiting up hairballs, there is likely more going on than most owners realize.

Grooming allows cats to keep themselves clean. They remove old hair, surface dirt, and foreign bodies when they groom themselves and other cats. But if a cat is long-haired, he has more hair to remove. So, long-haired cats who have to do all the grooming themselves - who aren’t being groomed by their owners - are ingesting more hair than Mother Nature planned on. The elimination of the extra hair may be too much for a healthy long-haired cat’s digestive system.

Over-grooming can occur when a cat is stressed. Anxiety and/or emotional stress can cause a cat to groom themself more often and for longer times. It’s a coping mechanism, like how many children suck their thumbs to seek solace. Over-grooming can also occur in cats experiencing pain. They may lick and groom the painful area to try to make it “feel better” and/or to reduce the stress. Urinary tract pain, musculoskeletal pain, and abdominal pain may cause over-grooming in the unhappy cat.

But hairballs also occur in cats who aren’t putting too much hair into their digestive tracts. If the stomach and small intestine aren’t allowing the ingested hair to move through normally, then the cat will produce hairballs. If the cat has inflammatory bowel disease, hair (and food) won’t pass through it at a normal speed, or at all. The stomach and intestinal tissue is damaged, and doesn’t provide normal motility. It also doesn’t produce the normal digestive enzymes or lubricants that allow the intestinal contents to move along.

Urethral Obstruction

If your male cat stops using the litter box, appears to be straining in the litter box, or is excessively licking his genitals, get him to the vet immediately. This may be a sign that he has a urinary tract infection or much worse, a urethral blockage. A cat whose urinary tract is blocked can die within hours or suffer irreversible organ damage from the buildup of toxins in his system. If you observe your cat exhibiting these symptoms, this should be medically addressed as soon as possible.

Litter Box 101

Litter box issues are a common problem, and they are the number one reason why guardians relinquish their cats to shelters. Although litter box issues can be very frustrating, they usually can be solved if you are patient and willing to explore the problem and the various possible solutions. Check out our Litter Box 101 guide for more information!

Medical problems & Inappropriate Elimination

The first thing to consider when confronted with a litter box issue is whether your cat is trying to communicate physical discomfort. Urinary tract problems (including cystitis, kidney infection, urinary bladder stones, etc), diabetes, arthritis, and bowel issues are some of the most common medical explanations for litter box problems. Any time a cat begins urinating outside of the litter box, they should be seen by a veterinarian for a physical examination and to rule out medical causes for the change in behavior. Even if there is a logical explanation for the cat not using the box, there is a possibility that lack of access to the box has caused the cat to hold their urine, which can cause a urinary tract infection. Problems can occur the other way around as well. A cat with a painful, untreated urinary tract infection can begin to associate the pain of urination with the litter box, creating a possible future behavior problem in addition to the existing medical problem. Urinary tract problems do not always show up on the first test, so work closely with your veterinarian when your cat has urinated outside of the box.

Good Litter, Maintenance and Quantity

If your cat defecates or urinates directly next to the litter box, this could be a sign that the litter box is too dirty or your can finds the litter unappealing. It is important that a cat’s litter box be kept clean. Cats will instinctively avoid eliminating in an area that has too many feces or too much urine. This aversion to dirty boxes is derived from your cat’s natural survival instinct. In the wild, predators seek out prey by tracking urine and feces. A dirty box is a red flag for your cat; it says that predators will soon find them and attack! By scooping the box daily, you ensure that your cat feels comfortable and safe using it. Also, every few weeks litter boxes should be washed with mild soap and rinsed out. Don’t use detergent that is too harsh, as the odor can be off-putting to your cat. A good litter box has about two inches of unscented litter in it. There are a variety of litters available, from clay to crystals to natural, biodegradable matter. Sometimes the solution to a litter box problem is as simple as choosing a new litter. Trial and error is the best way to find a litter your cat likes. The number of litter boxes in your home can make a difference as well. The optimum number of boxes is one more than the number of cats in the household. Some cats prefer to urinate in one box and defecate in another, so even if you have only one cat, it may be essential for you to have two litter boxes.

Type of Litter Box

the solution to a litter box problem is the type of litter box you’re using. If you have a covered litter box and your cat is hesitant to walk inside it, try removing the cover. Alternatively, your cat might prefer a covered litter box, so if you are using an uncovered box, try replacing it with a covered one. Sometimes, especially with senior cats and kittens, it is difficult for a cat to step over a high-sided box. If you notice your cat is having difficulty getting into the box, purchase a box with lower sides, a cut-out entrance, or a ramp. The size of the box is also important. Bigger cats may be hesitant to use a smaller box where they are less able to move around. Experimentation is the best way to find the box that best suits your cat. And remember, if you have more than one cat, it may be best to have a couple of different types of litter boxes to suit each of your cats’ needs.

Litter Box Location

is one of the most common reasons cats avoid using their litter boxes. Cats feel vulnerable to attack from predators when they eliminate, so instinct tells cats to choose a place to eliminate where they are able to see clearly and escape if a predator should appear. If your cat is not using the litter box, consider its location.

Putting the box out of sight or far away from where the cat spends most of their time is a common practice in many homes, but doing so can create an issue for cats who feel vulnerable when they use the litter box. Small bathrooms, closets, basements, pantries, and laundry rooms are all small spaces where a cat can feel trapped, and none are ideal litter box locations. A great location for a litter box is in a fairly quiet room within the part of the home where your cat spends most of their time. Place the box along the wall opposite the door to the room, and make sure there is no furniture blocking the view of the door. This open, safe spot is ideal for a litter box.

If you live in a multilevel home, keep a litter box on each level. If a cat has to make a trip up or downstairs to use the box, there is a greater chance that they will simply urinate or defecate in an area that doesn’t require as much travel, especially as they age.

Accidents Happen

The obvious reason you want to clean up urine and feces is the smell, which is unpleasant to people, but another reason to clean up messes right away is that cats are attracted back to areas where they or other cats have urinated. Enzymatic cleaners (available at most pet supply stores) are essential. Wipe up as much urine as you can, and pour (don’t just spray) enzymatic cleaner on the urine stains. After two weeks, if you can still smell the urine, soak the area again. Upholstered furniture and carpet can be cleaned using a carpet cleaning machine (available for rental at most hardware stores). Use a mixture of cold water and enzymatic cleaner. Be sure to turn off the heating element (heat will kill the enzymes) and repeatedly go over the spot with the cleaning mixture until you have removed as much of the urine as possible. Completely rinse with cool water. Enzymatic cleaners can also be used in washing machines for urine-soaked clothes or other machine washable items.

Territorial Marking

Spraying is a way for male cats to mark their territory. Intact (un-neutered) males are the biggest culprits, as they spray to claim territory over competing males. But spraying also can be a way for female or neutered male cats to mark their territory if they perceive a threat within their home or space. Urine sprayed on vertical surfaces is always considered urine marking, but both male and female cats also can mark with urine on horizontal surfaces. Horizontal urine marking is often near a door with access to the outside or an area of the home which houses another animal.

Since cats mark territory in ways other than spraying, a good solution to spraying is to encourage your cat to mark their territory in another way, such as scratching. Place a scratching post or mat near the areas your cat frequently sprays. If marking seems to be triggered by seeing other cats outdoors, cover windows and glass doors, so that your cat can’t see outside. You can also try Feliway spray or diffuser. Feliway is a synthetic cat-cheek pheromone that can be used to encourage a cat to rub their cheeks instead of marking with urine.

A note on kittens: Very young kittens may not be able to make it to the litter box before urinating or defecating. To prevent accidents while your kitten’s bladder is still developing, it is best to confine young kittens to a small area of your home and to have a litter box nearby. Once your kitten is a little older, they can have the run of the house without your having to worry about accidents. Also, although most kittens will instinctively use a litter box, it is a good idea to encourage and reward litter box use through positive reinforcement. When your young kitten successfully uses the litter box, reward the behavior with petting, treats, and kind words. A kitten who associates rewards with the litter box is more likely to continue appropriate litter box use throughout the entirety of their life.

Declawing and Litter Box Problems

Many declawed cats experience litter box problems. The declaw surgery is the equivalent of the amputation of human fingers at the first joint. After having this painful surgery, it’s not surprising that our feline friends might not be happy about digging around in a pile of sharp gravel when they have to use the bathroom! Declawed cats often will choose small rugs or other soft materials like clothing or bedding rather than use the litter box. The best way to avoid these litter box problems is to not declaw your cat. If your cat is already declawed and has a litter box problem, use the softest litter you can find. Avoid litters with large pellets or gravel. Finer materials are much more comfortable to your cat’s sensitive paws.

What About My Cat’s Claws?

The American Association of Feline Practitioners strongly believes it is the obligation of veterinarians to provide cat owners with alternatives to declawing. Declawing is an elective procedure that is highly controversial. The surgery (the medical term is onychectomy) involves amputation of the cat’s toes to the equivalent of the first knuckle on your own fingers. The surgery and long recovery period necessitate aggressive pain management for several weeks after surgery. Although laser declawing and advances in analgesia may decrease the amount of pain and the length of the recovery period, the end result is still the same: an amputation. Aside from the pain associated with the surgery and recovery period, we don’t support declawing for these reasons:

Scratching serves a purpose

Cats scratch for a variety of reasons, ranging from simple pleasure and exercise to deep seated instinct. Here are some of the reasons cats scratch:
- Scratching communicates a cat’s presence with both physical and scent marks. Cats’ paws have special scent glands between the toes that leave a residual scent (pheromone) after they’ve scratched. We can’t smell these scents, but for cats they’re a powerful form of communication.
- Scratching is a good form of exercise. Indoor cats in particular need all the exercise they can get.
- Scratching helps cats groom by removing old nail sheaths.
- Cats express emotions through scratching. Have you noticed your cat scratching when you arrive home from work or as you prepare their dinner? Your cat is expressing their excitement!

Declawing serves no health benefit to the cat and serious complications can occur

Surgeries such as spaying and neutering have direct long and short term health and behavioral benefits; declawing does not. In fact, many declawed cats suffer health problems as a result of the amputation. Complications that may result from the surgery include hemorrhaging, abscesses, bone chips that prevent healing, and regrowth of a deformed claw. In the long term, as shoulder, leg, and back muscles weaken due to a shift in balance and weight, your cat may develop chronic conditions such as arthritis or back and joint pain.

Declawing may cause behavioral problems

Scratching is instinctive (declawed cats still go through the motions of scratching). Interfering with an instinctive behavior is generally known to be stressful for an animal, and may result in other undesirable behavioral issues. Urinating and defecating outside the litter box and biting are two of the most common behavioral side effects of declawing. Other potential side effects include cats becoming fearful, nervous, withdrawn, or aggressive after being declawed.
Cats need claws should they escape
- As careful as we try to be with our indoor cats, accidents happen. Should your cat ever escape, he will need claws to ensure his survival.
Nonsurgical corrections exist and are effective
- You can trim your cat’s nails, train them to use scratching posts, use Soft Paws nail caps, apply Sticky Paws to your furniture, or use Feliway spray or diffusers.

How To Trim Your Cat’s Nails

Nail clipping is an important part of keeping your cat groomed. If a cat’s nails grow too long, they can cut into the paw pad and cause discomfort or even infection. To clip your cat’s nails, simply grasp the paw and gently squeeze the toe pad so that the nails unsheathe. Look for the pink part (the “quick”) inside the base of the nail. This is the sensitive tissue that contains the vessels and nerves. Don’t cut close to the quick. All you need to do is clip off the clear, curved part of the nail. If you only cut off this small part, you run little risk of cutting the quick. If you do accidentally cut the quick, the nail will bleed and the cat will experience some minor pain, but you are unlikely to have done serious damage. Apply pressure to the end of the nail with a clean piece of tissue or gauze until the bleeding stops. A styptic pencil or cornstarch can help stop the bleeding. If bleeding persists, contact a veterinarian.

Ideally, nails should be clipped regularly from kittenhood, so that the process becomes familiar and nonthreatening. Touch your cat’s paws often when the cat is calm to help them get accustomed to the way it feels. You also can train your cat to enjoy nail clipping by offering treats when you use the clippers. For adult cats who will not tolerate nail clippings without biting and struggling, it is best to get someone to assist. Two people can easily wrap the cat in a towel or blanket (make sure to cover his face so your cat cannot bite anyone), and then clip the nails. If this simply isn’t possible, a veterinary professional or a qualified groomer can clip your cat’s nails.

Scratching Posts

A good scratching post should have a strong and sturdy base (so it will not rock or tip over when your cat uses it) and should be no less than two feet high (taller is preferable), so your cat can get a full-body stretch. The post should be covered in sisal or a similar natural fiber. Smaller, carpet-covered posts are unappealing to many cats because they won’t reliably hold a cat’s weight. In addition, there’s no clear distinction for your cat between a carpet-covered post and the carpet on your floor. We recommend spending a little extra money for a good, natural fiber-covered post that will keep for years, save your furniture and appeal to your cats. It’s a good idea to have several different kinds of scratching posts, especially if you live in a multi-cat household. This is because individual cats may differ in the surfaces they prefer to scratch (sisal, cardboard, carpet, bark, etc.) Also, cats are territorial, and while they may share their posts, some prefer their own. Lastly, individual cats stretch and scratch differently; some cats enjoy a good horizontal stretch or even a semi-horizontal stretch. You can find good, inexpensive cardboard scratchers to fulfill these purposes. Be sure to securely anchor all posts so they don’t slide across the floor.

Initially, your cat may need some help discovering the new scratching post(s). Positive reinforcement is a great teaching method. Encourage your cat to use the new post by dangling toys from the top or scratching your own nails at the top of the post. When your cat reaches up and scratches, offer praise and reward the cat with a treat. You can even rub catnip on the post to encourage interest. We do not recommend placing your cat’s paws on the post. This will only create confusion as your cat will be more focused on getting your hands off their paws than discovering the new scratching post.

If you have tried all the recommended techniques but your cat continues to scratch your furniture, don’t panic. Be patient and try the following alternatives: cover the furniture with an unappealing scratching surface, such as a shower curtain, plastic furniture covering, plastic carpet runners (nubby-side up), plastic car mats (nubby-side up) or Sticky Paws double-sided tape. You can rearrange the furniture or, if possible, temporarily remove furniture from the room. Place the scratching post either right next to the furniture or in place of the furniture that your cat has been scratching, and begin the retraining process as described above. Remember, it is far more effective to praise good behavior and positively redirect negative behavior than to discourage or punish undesirable behavior. Doing the latter may result in your cat learning to exhibit the undesirable behavior when you are not around, and in some cases, it may actually reinforce the negative behavior. After several weeks of training, or when your cat is successfully using the post on a regular basis, you can uncover the furniture or bring it back into the room and move the post to its new location.

Location is Key

When it comes to scratching posts, it’s all about location. Try these spots:

Where the family congregates
Near a favorite napping location since cats enjoy a good stretch and scratch after awakening
Reasonably close to the front door since many cats like to scratch when people arrive home
As part of a feline aerobic center, like a sprawling cat tree, where cats can climb, play and snooze
Near a window or places where cats gather

Try Soft Paws

Soft Paws are a painless and simple alternative to declawing. Soft Paws are vinyl caps that glue to your cat’s claws. The caps prevent damage to furniture, protect people from getting accidentally scratched and prevent cats from scratching and aggravating skin conditions under treatment.

Try Feliway

Feliway contains a synthetic version of the facial pheromone that cats use to mark their territory. Although generally marketed to combat spraying, it also has been shown to decrease scratching behavior. They also have a product you can apply to encourage scratching on specific items like their scratching post.

Microchipping Your Pet

Despite your best efforts, your dog or cat has slipped out and disappeared. If they’re wearing a collar and identification tag, chances are good that if someone finds them, you’ll get them back.

But what if the collar comes off?

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To protect their pets in this scenario, many owners turn to technology in the form of microchips implanted in their pets. But don't rely on a microchip alone to protect your pet. In the event of accidental separation, identification tags are your pet's first ticket home. Microchips provide an extra level of protection in case your pet loses their collar and tags. Providing your cat or dog with both tags and a microchip can help ensure a happy reunion if the unthinkable happens and your companion gets lost.

What Are Microchips?

Microchips are tiny transponders, about the size of a grain of rice, that use radio frequency waves to transmit information about your pet. They're implanted just under the skin, usually right between the shoulder blades with a quick poke of a large bore needle. This can be done during a brief office visit while your pet is awake, they tolerate the needle better than you think!

How They Work

Each microchip contains a registration number and the phone number of the registry for the particular brand of chip. A handheld scanner reads the radio frequency of the chip and displays this information. The animal shelter or vet clinic that finds your pet can contact the registry to get your name and phone number.

Can a microchip get lost inside my pet?

Your pet's subcutaneous tissue usually bonds to the chip within 24 hours, preventing it from moving, although there's a very small chance that the chip could migrate. But it can't actually get lost inside your pet.

How long do microchips last?

Microchips are designed to work for 25 years.

How do I register my pet?

Complete the paperwork that comes with the chip and send it to the registry, or do it immediately online if that option is available. Some companies charge a one-time registration fee while others charge an annual fee. You’ll also receive a tag for your pet’s collar with the chip number and registry phone number.

Are there different types of chips?

Yes, and that used to be a problem. Competing microchip companies use different frequencies to send signals to scanners, and until recently there was no universal scanner that could read all the different frequencies. That was a problem if a pet had a microchip that a scanner couldn't detect.
Microchip companies now produce universal scanners and provide them to animal shelters and animal control agencies at no or very low cost. If your local shelters don’t have scanners, they can contact some of the major manufacturers to ask about getting one.

Are there different registries?

Yes, and that, too, used to be problematic. Different chip companies maintained separate databases. Now, some chip companies will register pets with any brand of chip Also, the American Microchip Advisory Council is working to develop a network of the registry databases to streamline the return of pets to their families.

Can a microchip replace my pet's collar and tags?

Despite advances in universal scanners and registry procedures, microchips aren't foolproof, and you shouldn't rely on them exclusively to protect your pet. Universal scanners can detect a competing company's chip, but they may not be able to read the data. And if shelter or vet clinic personnel don’t use the scanner properly, they may fail to detect a chip.

What if I move?

You need to contact the company that registers the chip to update your information; otherwise, the chip will be useless. You may be charged a small fee to process the update.

What do I do if I adopt a pet who's already been microchipped?

If you know what brand of chip your pet has, contact the corresponding registry to update the information. If you don’t know what type of chip your pet has, find a veterinarian or animal shelter that can read it.

Pet Insurance 101

Just like us, pets may require unexpected medical treatment. Many people only consider emergencies such as getting hit by a car but your pet is probably more likely to have a bout of GI upset, eat a toy, or develop issues like arthritis or allergies, all of which can be costly to diagnose and treat. When the unexpected happens, pet health insurance can help prevent finances from playing a role in determining what care you can provide for your pet.

Pet health insurance typically involves a monthly premium, so you may be asking yourself, “Is this an investment I want to make?” When determining if pet health insurance is the right fit for you and your pet, it’s important to note the many ways it can improve a bad situation:

Pet health insurance gives you peace of mind should your pet end up in an unexpected emergency, you will never have to deny them the care that they need. Whether it be an ingested thread or a scuffle at the dog park, pet health insurance lets you rest easy knowing your pet is covered.
Pet health insurance allows pet owners to prioritize the best possible medical care for their pets. Alleviating some of the financial burden of a pricey procedure or treatment ensures pets will receive the best possible care - no questions asked.
Pet health insurance protects pet owners who know they cannot afford a medical emergency out of pocket.
Do Your Homework
Pet health insurance is not one-size-fits-all. There are cat-specific and dog-specific plans. There are plans that only cover sick visits and emergencies, and others that offer wellness coverage. There are plans that cover the full cost and other plans that have deductibles or cover a percentage of the total invoice.
- No pet health insurance will pay for pre-existing conditions so the sooner in life you insure your pet, the more it will cover.
- Some pet health insurances have special exclusions that are breed specific so be sure to ask them.
- Make sure your preferred clinic accepts your provider (BLVD Vet accepts all major plans, but recommends ASPCA Pet Health Insurance which has no network restrictions.)
- Research to find one that makes sense for you and your pet’s needs. Contact representatives to ask additional questions.
- Get a quote. Most insurance providers will provide a calculator that will give you a quote for monthly premiums for your dog or cat based on their age, location, and sometimes breed.

How It Works

Pet health insurance providers typically require an exam to start so they have a baseline for the current health of your pet. If your pet is due for a wellness or a puppy/kitten exam, this is the perfect time to apply for pet health insurance.
One you have pet health insurance, if your pet has a medical visit, you would submit your claim (online, by mail or by fax.) Typically they only require an invoice and a medical note to support the claim.
Pay the invoice at the time of service and have reimbursements directly deposited into your bank account. Some insurance companies are able to coordinate paying the veterinarian directly if paying out of pocket first is not possible.

“If pet owners are thinking about getting insurance, I usually recommend them doing it as soon as possible. Anytime your pet has an issue prior to getting insurance it would be classified as a pre-existing condition and not covered. This is super frustrating with skin issues and other chronic diseases.”

— Dr. Andrew Bean

We all want the best for our pets and providing them with the care they need can be made much easier by utilizing pet health insurance. Still have questions on how it works? Don’t hesitate to give us a call. We are always here for you and your pets.

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Pet Poison Control

Any ingestion of human medication, or veterinary medication beyond a prescribed dose should also be treated as a medical emergency. If you suspect your pet has ingested anything dangerous, please contact the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center at (888) 426-4435. Cats additionally can be very sensitive to chemicals not specifically intended and tested for cats so be very cautious about using over the counter shampoos, wipes and parasite preventatives. Cats are also very sensitive to lilies in the “true lily” and “daylily” families. The entire lily plant is toxic including the stem, leaves, flowers, pollen, and even the water in a vase. If treatment is delayed by 18 hours or more after ingestion, the cat will generally have irreversible kidney failure so keep lilies out of your home!

Lastly, the following foods may be dangerous for your pet to ingest:

Alcoholic beverages
Apple seeds
Apricot pits
Avocados
Cherry pits
Candy (particularly chocolate and any candy containing the toxic sweetener Xylitol)
Coffee (grounds, beans, and chocolate-covered espresso beans)
Garlic
Grapes
Gum (can cause blockages and sugar free gums may contain the toxic sweetener Xylitol)
Hops
Lilies
Macadamia nuts
Moldy foods
Mushroom plants
Mustard seeds
Onions and onion powder
Peach pits
Potato leaves and stems (green parts)
Raisins
Rhubarb leaves
Salt
Tea (because it contains caffeine)
Tomato leaves and stems (green parts)
Walnuts
Xylitol (artificial sweetener that is toxic to pets)
Yeast dough